Orangeburg Piping And Why It Should Be Replaced. Mid-century Orangeburg sewer pipe collapses from the inside. How we replace it trenchless.
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hey I'm Corbin with Titan Plumbing and Electric and today we're here to talk about orange BG piping and why it must be replaced orange BG piping was first starting to be installed in the late 1800s it is a composite material combined of old wood chippings and tar so the longevity of these pipes is not great it was said to last 50 years but odds are you might only get 30 years out of it the problem with these pipes are is that they're soft they compress they also get holes in them this can lead the clogs down the line in the future of your home the best way to find out if you have orange Berg piping is to have a plumber come out and Camera your line so we can identify the type of piping if we do find Orange Berg piping it is highly recommended that we replace it if you're experiencing Plumbing issues give us a call at 813 93381 0 or visit our website Titan plumbing and electric.com
Orangeburg Piping And Why It Should Be Replaced — Tampa Drain & Sewer Walkthrough
Mid-century Orangeburg sewer pipe collapses from the inside. How we replace it trenchless.
Most repeat clogs in Tampa Bay homes trace back to grease in kitchen branches, root intrusion at clay-tile sewer laterals, and old galvanized lines that have lost their inside diameter to scale. A cable will punch a hole through a clog and buy you a few weeks; hydro jetting and a camera locate fix the underlying cause. The video above shows the difference in real time.
Why Tampa drains clog the way they do
Tampa Bay's mid-century housing stock leans heavily on clay-tile sewer laterals — joints every five feet, just enough gap for tree roots to find. Once roots are inside the pipe, every flush slows them down a little less. By the time the homeowner calls us, the clog has usually become a recurring problem, and a snake just punches through what will close again in a month.
Newer homes don't have the root problem, but they do have grease problems. Long branch lines from the kitchen sink to the main stack accumulate cooled grease at the cooler sections of the pipe — typically the wall behind the dishwasher and again at the basement-stack tie-in. A camera shows the grease layer, the jetter cuts it back to bare pipe.
How we approach a recurring clog
Camera first. Always. Without a camera, you're guessing about the clog type, the pipe material, and the location — three things that change the right tool. The camera locates the failure, identifies the pipe (clay vs cast iron vs PVC), and tells us whether jetting is appropriate (yes for most modern pipe; cast-iron with active corrosion gets a gentler treatment).
After the jet, we run a follow-up camera pass to confirm the line is clear. If the clog turned out to be structural — a collapsed section, an offset joint — we write up a trenchless point-repair quote on the spot.
- Camera locate before any cabling or jetting
- Jetter at 3,500–4,000 PSI for mainline clears
- Follow-up camera pass to confirm clear
- Documented quote if the issue is structural
Key takeaways
What this video covers in plain English
Most repeat clogs in Tampa Bay homes share three causes. The video shows one of them in action; these takeaways help you identify which one is actually behind your recurring problem.
- Tree-root intrusion is the #1 cause of recurring clogs in clay-tile sewer laterals
- Grease buildup at long kitchen branches is the #2 cause in newer homes
- A camera locate before any cabling tells you which problem you have
- Hydro jetting clears scale and roots that a cable just punches through
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